Here is a GE Washer Fault Code List: Are you experiencing problems with your GE washer? Have you noticed that your washer is not working as it should be? A fault code may have appeared on your washer’s display, indicating that something is wrong. This article will provide you with a list of GE washer fault codes, what they mean, and how to troubleshoot them. Drain and Spin Meaning
GE Washer Fault Code List
Sure, here’s a list of common fault codes for GE washers:
- E10: Water doesn’t fill properly
- E11: Long fill time
- E12: Water temperature sensor error
- E13: Water level sensor error
- E20: Drainage problem
- E21: Drain pump issue
- E22: Door lock error
- E23: Drain pump relay error
- E24: Heater error
- E30: Drum overfilled with water
- E31: Pressure sensor error
- E41: Control board error
- E42: Control board error
- E43: Control board error
- E44: Control board error
- E45: Control board error
- E46: Control board error
- E47: Control board error
- E48: Control board error
- E49: Control board error
- E50: Motor error
- E51: Motor error
- E52: Motor error
- E53: Motor error
- E54: Motor error
- E61: Heating element error
- E62: Communication error between the control board and heating element
- E63: Communication error between the control board and motor
- E64: Communication error between the control board and sensor
- E65: Communication error between the control board and door lock
Note that this list may not be exhaustive and some models may have different codes. It’s best to consult the user manual or contact a professional if you’re experiencing issues with your GE washer.

Error Code | Problem |
---|---|
E22 | Fill timeout -No fill/slow fill. Fill time exceeds 8 minutes. Check water valve functions. |
E23 | Flood protect drain. In run state, any time the overflow be detected. Check water valve or water sensor. |
E31 | Drain timeout. Slow drain: 1. Machine will have water. 2 Not full. Check drain pump – t05. |
E38 | Dispenser error. Correct reservoir is not found and 8 switches are seen when motor is running. |
E39 | Dispenser timeout. No switches found in 45 seconds. Check dispenser – t12 |
E42 | Drive motor. Motor excess current draw. Check drive motor – t10 tumble, t11 spin, t13 spin. |
E45 | No speed feedback. Motor speed lost. Check Motor – t10 tumble, t11 spin, T13 spin. |
E46 | Drive motor – over temperature. Inverter over temperature. Power down (unplug) washer, wait 30 seconds and retry – use whites cycle sanitize temperature – if reoccurs, replace drive motor. |
E47 | Heat sink – over temperature. Inverter over temperature. |
E48 | Drive motor – open. Open motor phase. Check motor for open winding – if OK, replace inverter. |
E4A | Under volts. Under volts – DC bus voltage (inverter). Check Motor. |
E4B | Power up problems. Software/hardware problems. Check Motor or Motor windings. |
E4C | Over volts. Over volts – DC bus (inverter). Check Motor – t10 tumble, t11 spin, t13 spin. Power down (unplug) washer, wait 30 seconds and retry – if reoccurs, replace inverter. |
E50 | Drive/Control Interface system. Unexpected Motor Fault. |
E52 | Main control wake-up error. Lost communication between control and drive motor after initial success. Check connections/cables between main control and inverter. |
E54 | No motor response. Lost communication between control and drive motor. |
E56 | Electronic control. An unexpected reset has happened. Non-recoverable error. Main control board must be replaced. |
E57 | Checksum failure. Software error occurs – checksum failure. Non-recoverable error. Main control board must be replaced. |
E58 | Communication failure. Communication error occurs. |
E60 | Door lock switch failure. Switch failure occurs during lock. Power down (unplug) machine, wait 30 seconds and retry. Check wiring and connections between door lock. |
E61 | Door unlock and main control switch failure. Switch failure occurs during unlock. Power down (unplug) machine, wait 30 seconds and retry. |
E62 | System contact failure. Load failure occurs. Heater/pump/ pressure switch/ door lock/water valves/dispenser motor. |
E63 | Unexpected open door. Switch failure occurs during wake-up. |
E64 | Unexpected open door while running. Switch failure occurs during cycle. |
E65 | Water level sensor failure – foam. Pressure sensor frequency out of range. |
E66 | Water temperature sensor open. Water temperature sensor open. |
E67 | Water temperature sensor shorted. Water temperature sensor shorted. Check water temperature sensor – t07 |

GE 24 inch Front Load Washer:
Models: WCVH4800KWW – WCVH4815KMS
ge 24 inch front load washer
Error Code | Problem |
---|---|
E00 | No error |
4E | Water valve problem |
5E | Drain pump problem |
OE | Overflow level was reached |
HE | Heater relay error, replace the main pcb |
HE1 | Heater problem |
1E | Pressure sensor error |
LE | Leakage error |
9E1 | Under voltage error |
9E2 | Over voltage error |
3E1 | Motor start up failure |
3E2 | Over current error |
3E3 | Hall sensor error |
3E4 | IPM over heating error |
tE | Water thermistor error |
dE | Door open error |
dE1 | Door lock error |
dE3 | Door un lock error |
bE2 | Button error |
AE | Communication error between Main and Sub PBA |
SF | System Failure error |
DE2 | Door protection |
UE | Out of balance error |

GE 27″ Top Load Washer:
Error Code | Problem |
---|---|
1 | Lock Monitor. Lid lock didn’t occur or lid lock signal not seen by control due to lack of connection. |
2 | Lid Monitor. Control did not get lid closed signal from switch while motor was moving. Could mean the switch didn’t close or control didn’t get the signal because of lack of connection. Replace control if this fault happens repeatedly. |
3 | Locked Rotor Monitor. For 5 straight seconds control not seeing signal changes indicating the motor is turning while trying to spin. Could mean the motor isn’t rotating or Control didn’t get the signal because of lack of connection. |
4 | Reset Monitor. Control is resetting the software by itself due to criteria it believes could resolve itself upon reset. |
5 | Mode Shifter. Control didn’t see the transition from Agitate to Spin or vice-versa in the time required. Could mean the shift didn’t occur or Control didn’t get the signal because of lack of connection. |
6 | Critical Flood Level by Pressure. Pressure level exceeds 17.5 inches above pressure port. Control received an extended period of pressure readings that is nearing over-flow levels. Pressure 17.5”. Voltage Output must be present. Could mean water did get that high due to briefly stuck water valve. Voltage output of sensor too high for actual water level because of sensor or water in pressure tube increasing pressure. |
7 | Flood Warning Level by Pressure. Pressure level exceeds 16.5 inches above pressure port. Main micro received and extended period of pressure readings that is greater than maximum allowable fill volume. Pressure 16.5”. Voltage output must be present. Could mean water did get that high due to briefly stuck water valve. Voltage output of Sensor too high for actual water level because of sensor or water in pressure tube increasing pressure. |
8 | Pressure Sensor Loss. This determines if there has been a too great of a difference in the pressure sensor reading and the expected pressure sensor reading for the amount of water the control calculated it has put in. It assumes there is a pressure leak, a clog in the pressure hose/system delaying the increase in pressure, or a significant amount water leaking out. |
9 | Lid Switch Redundancy. Start attempted for a 4th cycle when the previous 3 cycles have completed with backup micro seeing lid open. Could mean the switches didn’t occur or backup processor didn’t get the signal because of lack of connection. |
10 | Mode Shift Feedback Monitor. Signal feedback state from the mode shifter (agitate or spin) and the state requested by the control are not the same and the basket or agitator is rotating faster than 3-4 RPM. Agitate mode feedback signal is no voltage. |
11 | Clock Monitor. 1. AC power line frequency is not 60Hz. 2. Software failure. |
12 | Redundant Flood Condition. Backup Processor received an extended period of pressure readings that is nearing over-flow levels. Pressure 18.0 Voltage Output must be present. Could mean water did get that high due to briefly stuck water valve. Voltage output of Sensor too high for actual water level because of Sensor or water in Pressure tube increasing pressure. |
13 | Redundant Lid Unlocked. In spin mode, the lid switch feedback has voltage (lid closed), for more than 5 seconds the motor speed feedback assumes the basket is spinning > 4-5RPM when the lid lock feedback has no voltage (Lid Unlocked). Lid Switch Feedback has no Voltage when the BRPM is > 4-5RPM. |
14 | Lid Lock Fault. Signal received by control is indicating the lock will not lock or unlock when requested or the lid switch is indicating open when the signal received indicated locked. |
15 | Water Temp Sensor Invalid. 1. Thermistor disconnected/not present. 2. Failed thermistor. |
16 | Adaptive Drain/Slow Drain. The total number of times during machine life the actual amount of time the pressure sensor indicated the wash water had drained to empty exceeded the calculated time by the software. |
17 | Dry load sense times out and moves to the next part of the cycle selected. This occurs when the washer is not reaching the target speed within a defined time limit for the load type selected. |
18 | Drain Pump Clearing algorithm failed. While draining the pressure sensor value for water level did not indicate the washer was empty before the Max Continuous Drain ON time was reached. |
19 | UI State Time-out. Washer was paused for over 12 hours. This is normal operation. This will happen if the consumer and or control switched cycle to a paused state. |
20 | Critical Flood Level by Gallons. Water volume into the tub exceeded 41 gallons as calculated by the control. |
21 | Flood Warning Level by Gallons. Water volume into the tub exceeded 36.3 gallons as calculated by the control. Stops filling. |
22 | Out of Balance (OOB) during Dry Load Sense. Large wet/OOB load being washed. This is set if OOB condition is detected during dry load sense algorithm. Dry load sense will be abandoned and wet load sense will be started. |
23 | Critical Lid Lock. 1. Lock blockage 2. Lid Lock fault. Will not lock or unlock or is locked while lid is opened. |
24 | Lid Logic Failure. Lid switch fault. This fault is set if the system perceives the lid to be both OPEN and LOCKED for 5 consecutive seconds |
25 | Pressure Sensor Dropout. 1. Disconnected pressure hose. 2. Pressure tube is pinched or has water in it. 3. Pressure sensor fault. |
26 | Out of Balance (OOB) Ended Final Spin. Washer could not redistribute load to HOLPLQDWH22%FRQGLWLRQWRDFKLHYH¿QDO targeted spin speed. |
What are Fault Codes?

Fault codes are alphanumeric codes that appear on your washer’s display, indicating that there is a problem. These codes are unique to each manufacturer and can provide insight into the specific issue that is occurring. Fault codes can help you diagnose and fix the problem yourself or provide your technician with more information to help them troubleshoot the issue.
GE Washer Fault Code List
Here is a list of GE washer fault codes, what they mean, and how to troubleshoot them:
H01
This code indicates that there is an issue with the washer’s motor control board. You can try resetting the control board by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes and then plugging it back in. If the code persists, you may need to replace the motor control board.
H02
This code indicates that there is an issue with the washer’s keypad. You can try resetting the keypad by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes and then plugging it back in. If the code persists, you may need to replace the keypad.
H03
This code indicates that there is an issue with the washer’s drain pump. Check to make sure that the drain hose is not kinked or clogged. If the hose is clear, you may need to replace the drain pump.
H04
This code indicates that there is an issue with the washer’s water supply. Check to make sure that the water valves are turned on and that the hoses are not kinked or clogged. If the valves are open and the hoses are clear, you may need to replace the water inlet valve.
H05
This code indicates that there is an issue with the washer’s temperature sensor. You can try resetting the sensor by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes and then plugging it back in. If the code persists, you may need to replace the temperature sensor.
H06
This code indicates that there is an issue with the washer’s door lock. Check to make sure that the door is properly closed and that the lock is functioning properly. If the door is closed and the lock is functioning properly, you may need to replace the door lock assembly.
H07
This code indicates that there is an issue with the washer’s water level sensor. You can try resetting the sensor by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes and then plugging it back in. If the code persists, you may need to replace the water level sensor.
H08
This code indicates that there is an issue with the washer’s motor. Check to make sure that the washer is level and that the load is balanced. If the washer is level and the load is balanced, you may need to replace the motor.
H09
This code indicates that there is an issue with the washer’s pressure sensor. You can try resetting the sensor by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes and then plugging it back in. If the code persists, you may need to replace the pressure sensor.
H10
This code indicates that there is an issue with the washer’s door latch. Check to make sure that the door is properly closed and that the latch is functioning properly. If the door is closed and the latch is functioning properly, you may need to replace the door latch assembly.
H11
This code indicates that there is an issue with the washer’s motor control board
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H11 (continued)
You can try resetting the motor control board by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes and then plugging it back in. If the code persists, you may need to replace the motor control board.
H12
This code indicates that there is an issue with the washer’s electronic control board. You can try resetting the control board by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes and then plugging it back in. If the code persists, you may need to replace the electronic control board.
H13
This code indicates that there is an issue with the washer’s water temperature sensor. You can try resetting the sensor by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes and then plugging it back in. If the code persists, you may need to replace the water temperature sensor.
H14
This code indicates that there is an issue with the washer’s dispenser motor. Check to make sure that the dispenser is not clogged or blocked. If the dispenser is clear and the code persists, you may need to replace the dispenser motor.
H15
This code indicates that there is an issue with the washer’s detergent dispenser. Check to make sure that the dispenser is not clogged or blocked. If the dispenser is clear and the code persists, you may need to replace the detergent dispenser assembly.
H16
This code indicates that there is an issue with the washer’s door lock mechanism. Make sure the door is properly closed and try restarting the cycle. If the code persists, you may need to replace the door lock assembly.
H17
This code indicates that there is an issue with the washer’s drain pump. Check to make sure that the drain hose is not clogged or blocked. If the hose is clear and the code persists, you may need to replace the drain pump.
H18
This code indicates that there is an issue with the washer’s control panel. Check to make sure that all connections to the control panel are secure. If the connections are secure and the code persists, you may need to replace the control panel.
H19
This code indicates that there is an issue with the washer’s water level sensor. Check to make sure that the water level sensor hose is not kinked or blocked. If the hose is clear and the code persists, you may need to replace the water level sensor.
H20
This code indicates that there is an issue with the washer’s thermistor. Check to make sure that the thermistor is properly connected and not damaged. If the thermistor is damaged or the code persists, you may need to replace the thermistor.
Profile Front Load Washer:
Error Code | Problem |
---|---|
E1 | UI EEPROM. Internal problem with UI or MC board. Replace board as necessary. |
E2 | Power EEPROM. Internal problem with UI or MC board. Replace board as necessary. |
E4 | Thermistor Short. Water Temperature Sensor Problem. |
E5 | Thermistor Open. Water Temperature Sensor Problem. |
E6 | Pressure Switch. Water Level Sensor Problem. |
E7 | Slow Fill. Fill Problem. |
E8 | Drain System. Drain Problem. |
E9 | Dispenser Motor. Dispenser Problem. |
E10 | Motor Comm Interface. Communication Problem Between Main Control and Inverter. |
E11 | Door Lock. Door Lock Assembly Problems. |
E12 | Door Unlock. Door Lock Assembly Problems. |
E13 | Door Open. Door Lock Assembly Problems. |
E28 | Unexpected Door Unlock Detected. Door Lock Assembly Problems. |
E14 | Overflow Error. Overfl ow level was reached. |
E15 | Open Circuit. Open circuit in any of three motor phases detected. No speed info present and bridge will be turned off immediately. Motor will coast down. Drive will preserve nonzero speed info during the stop check stage. |
E16 | Over Trip. Inverter operation above design limits. |
E18 | Heatsink Over Temp. Inverter operation above design limits. |
E19 | Motor Over Temp. Inverter operation above design limits. |
E20 | Overload Current. Inverter operation above design limits. |
E21 | Overload Power. Inverter operation above design limits. |
E22 | Over Volts. Inverter Internal Problems. |
E23 | Under Volts. Inverter Internal Problems. |
E24 | Under Volts After Start. Inverter Internal Problems. |
E25 | Power Up. Inverter Internal Problems. |
E3 | Inverter EEPROM Fault Event. Inverter Internal Problems. |
E17 | ADC Fault Event. Inverter Internal Problems. |
E26 | LIN Comm Fail. There is a problem with the Communication between the Main Control and the User Interface Control. |
GE Washing Machine Troubleshooting Codes
Trouble | Fixes |
Short spray and delay after pushing the Start button | If the lid was opened and closed between the cycle selection, this will occur. |
The water level seems low | If water doesn’t cover the top level of the clothes, it’ll trigger this error. This is completely normal for a high-efficiency washer. |
Water siphoning out of the washer | If the hose is too far into the standpipe or the standpipe is too low, it’ll prevent water from entering the washer. The drain hose must remain below 32″. You need to use an anti-siphon clip to make sure water doesn’t come out. |
A small amount of water remains in the dispenser (on some models) at end of the cycle | This is a normal error. It just means that there’s a small amount of water remaining in the dishwasher after the cycle. |
Water won’t drain | If water can’t be drained from the hose because it’s kinked, straighten it out and make sure that water isn’t sitting on it. The top of the drain outlet should remain below 6ft above the floor. |
Washer spins and pauses at the beginning of cycles | If the washer is pausing at the beginning of the cycle, it’s just sensing the load. It’s completely normal. |
Low water flow | If the water valve screens are stopped, it’ll show a low water flow error. You need to turn off the water source and remove the hosed from the upper backside of the washer and the water faucet. Clean both hose screens to make sure that nothing is blocking them. Once cleaned with a brush, reconnect the hoses and turn the water back on. Make sure water isn’t leaking out of the hoses once the water is back on. |
Laundry additives dispensing too soon | If the dispenser is overfilling, don’t add more water to it. If you’re using a fabric softer, use the deep rinse option. |
Detergent packets not dissolving | If the detergent has clumps in it, it’ll be harder to dissolve. Don’t use detergent packets inside the dispenser. You should add them to the washer basket. Make sure to read the manufacturer’s directions for instructions. |
Unexplained time and/ or settings changes | Changing options (on some models) This is normal. Several options will change other options to maximize washer performanceSometimes the option you selected might change to another option. This is completely normal and it happens to maximize the washer’s performance. |
The washer pauses during the spin cycle. | This happens when the washer is trying to get rid of the soapy water and replace it with a fresh washer. |
Residual powder in dispenser or clogging of dispensers | If the water pressure to the washer is too low, this can happen. It can also happen if the water is too cold. You can select a warmer wash temperature to allow the detergent to dissolve, or you can use liquid detergent. You can also press the siphon caps into position and make sure it’s free of debris. If the clogging continues, you can remove and clean the tray. |
Basket seems loose | If the basket moves freely, it might trigger this error. Since the basked doesn’t have a break, it’s completely normal for it to move freely. |
“Click” when water stops filling | Relay switch. The relay makes a click sound when activated. The water level activates the relay and stops filling. |
Water flow changes during fill | Automatic Temperature Control Valve. Two valves mix cold and hot water. The “clicking” is when either valve turns on or off to raise or lower the fill water temperature. |
Motor sounds during spin | Motor ramping up/down during spin cycle. The motor will speed up incrementally during the spin cycle. When the spin is complete, it will coast until it stops. |
“Clicking” behind Control during fill | Automatic Temperature Control Valve. Two valves mix cold and hot water. The “clicking” is when either valve turns on or off to raise or lower the fill water temperature. |
Conclusion
If you experience any of the fault codes listed above, don’t panic. Follow the troubleshooting steps provided to determine the issue and take appropriate action. By understanding what each code means, you can take the necessary steps to repair your washer yourself or provide your technician with more information to help them diagnose and fix the issue.
FAQs
- Can I reset the washer to clear a fault code? Yes, unplugging the washer for 5 minutes and then plugging it back in may reset the control board and clear some fault codes.
- Can I fix a fault code myself or should I call a technician? It depends on the severity of the issue. If it is a simple fix, such as a clogged hose, you can likely fix it yourself. If the issue is more complex, it may be best to call a technician.
- How can I prevent fault codes from occurring? Regular maintenance, such as cleaning the washer and checking for blockages, can help prevent fault codes from occurring.
- How often should I check my washer for issues? It is recommended to check your washer for issues regularly, such as every 6 months to a year.
- What should I do if I can’t fix the issue myself? If you are unable to fix the issue yourself, contact a GE technician for assistance.
- How can I prevent faults from occurring on my GE washer? Regular maintenance, such as cleaning the washer and checking for blockages, can help prevent faults from occurring.
- What should I do if a fault code appears on my washer’s display? Refer to the fault code list in your washer’s manual and follow the troubleshooting steps provided.
- Can I still use my washer if a fault code appears on the display? It depends on the severity of the issue. Refer to your washer’s manual for more information on what to do when a fault code appears.
- Can I reset my washer to clear a fault code? In some cases, unplugging the washer for 5 minutes and then plugging it back in may reset the control board and clear some fault codes.
- How often should I replace parts on my GE washer? It depends on the part and how frequently the washer is used. Refer to your washer’s manual for more information on recommended maintenance and replacement schedules.